Banderas Bay

Moving 21 miles south from Bahia de Matanchen we stopped briefly at the rolly anchorage of Chacala.  This one definitely requires bow and stern anchors to reduce the boat’s motion by keeping the boat bow-to the incoming swell.  When we anchored there, there did not appear to be significant current – we and other folks swam in and around the boats at anchor with no problem – but neither GB nor I are much for big rolls when we’re trying to get some sleep.  So despite the short day trip from Matanchen, and although I enjoyed the swimming, and even though other cruisers rave about its beautiful beaches, fancy houses, and fine palapa restaurants, the rolliness of the anchorage impels me to give Chacala a large "Meh". 

The 40 or so miles from Chacala in to Banderas Bay were spectacular for critters – specifically, many whales (singing humpbacks, even!) and dozens of sea turtles on the move.  However, I was a bit underwhelmed at Banderas Bay and the Puerto Vallarta area in general.  This mood may have had something to do with the fact that Puerto Vallarta is a very popular cruising and racing destination, which naturally tends toward overhype the way Cabo San Lucas and (presumably) Acapulco do.  Or it could have something to do with the fact that we had had some equipment go kerflooey, we took a bus in to Puerto Vallarta to try and find replacement parts at the stores that had the most appropriate and biggest inventories, and we came away empty-handed.  Or it could be that the boat-related items we saw that were available, like dinghies (for US $4500) and fishing tackle (lures for US $30), were being sold at the largest marine store at about twice the US prices.  Whatever the reason for my mood, I’m willing at some time in the future to give Puerto Vallarta another chance – as long as I’m not buying any boat gear.  But it might be hard to do that when the northeasternmost edge of Banderas Bay is home to La Cruz de Huanacaxtle.*La_cruz_marina_riviera_nayarit_2172 La_cruz_the_fox_at_rest

La Cruz has a pretty good (albeit fetchy in the afternoon) anchorage outside of a brand-new, still-being-built marina called Marina Riviera Nayarit.  We hid in there for a few days while we tried (in vain) to sort out the nonessential equipment breakdowns.  Here’s our consumer review of the marina:  Docks are in good shape and well marked, and as expensive as at least some of the other marinas in Puerto Vallarta proper.  Shore power and water are available at each slip for an extra charge but water is non-potable.  Onshore showers and restrooms are free, large, clean and with plenty of hot water.  Staff is friendly and will help you check in with the port captain and harbormaster.  No fuel dock, but fuel and water delivery can be arranged nearby.  I heard one cruiser be concerned over how well the docks and breakwaters will survive a hurricane, but I guess in these parts you never know until a hurricane drops down on top of you. La_cruz_de_huanacaxtle_close_up La_cruz_street_scene  The town of La Cruz itself has excellent restaurants and music venues(find where the 3 young gentlemen who comprise "Tatewari" are playing their African-Latin-flamenco music), and an outstanding gallery of Huichol art, and you can get all your provisioning done either in La Cruz or within a short bus ride.  Personally?  Unless I had a significant repair problem with the boat that required a lot of work by experts in Puerto Vallarta itself, I would return to Marina Riviera Nayarit and spend all my tourist pesos in La Cruz and neighboring Bucerias.  Check it out.

* Pronounced sort of like "wan-a-cahsh-lay."

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